Australian Wildlife - Recently Updated Pages

Birds Identification Guide [Main]

LSmitheringale — Sat, 26 Sep 2009 23:18:34 CDT

A guide to native Australian Birds - photos, description, habitat and other notes.

To begin your search please choose from the categories on the left hand-side

LINKS FOR AUSTRALIAN BIRDS
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Birds Identification Guide [Sea and Water Birds]

LSmitheringale — Sat, 26 Sep 2009 22:55:43 CDT

Sea and Water Birds

Black-winged Stilt
[Himantopus himantopus]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

Photo Sources: Lesley Smitheringale and alnus

Name of Bird
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clickin on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name of Bird
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clickin on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name of Bird
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clickin on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Birds Identification Guide [Parrots]

LSmitheringale — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 02:54:23 CDT

Parrots

Rainbow Lorikeet
[Trichoglossus haematodus]

Description: A dark blue head with lighter blue streaks and bright red bill. Yellow-green collar and deep violet-blue abdomen. Red, yellow and grey underwings. The males and females are almost identical. Size: 28cm. Voice: Continuous screeching and chattering and also wheezing noises when feeding.

Notes: These gorgeous birds are found in almost all habitats, ranging from rainforest to city parks and gardens. They are widespread in the Greater Brisbane Region and across much of the coast and hinterland of the continent, with the exception of a small pocket on the central coast of Western Australia. They are present all year round. They are nectar eaters and have an absorbent "brush-tipped" tongue covered in fine, spongy protrusions that soak up the nectar. They also supplement their diet with fruit, seeds and insects.

Picture Source: "Lean on Me", a pair of lorikeets getting cosy on a rainy afternoon, taken by Lesley Smitheringale in her garden in the Redlands area of Queensland, Australia.

Info Sources: "Parrots - A Wild Australia Guide" by Steve Parish and Karin Cox, "Wildlife of Greater Brisbane - A Queensland Museum Wild Guide", "Field Guide to the Birds of Australia" by Simpson & Day.

Frogs and Toads Identification Guide [Main]

LSmitheringale — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 17:19:37 CDT

In this section you will find out all about frogs and toads.

General Frog and Toad Links and Articles

Jolly Green Giant not set to Croak

Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary vets have given big, fat Esmeralda a clean bill of health but many frogs are not so lucky by Renee Redmond
ESMERALDA is not your average green tree frog. She weighs 288 grams, measures 15cm and is estimated to be at least 23 years old! Her size and age make her a relatively rare sight in the wild and apart from her beauty and a naturally "happy face" - that smile seems to get broader whenever Esmeralda is fed - she is precious for a very important reason.
Amphibians like Esmeralda are widely regarded by scientists as the equivalent of canaries in a coalmine, since their highly permeable skin is sensitive to changes in the environment, including changes to fresh water and air quality. According to the science magazine Nature, a comprehensive study has found the world's amphibian species are under unprecedented assault and experiencing tens of thousands of years worth of extinctions in just a century. More that 500 scientists from over 60 nations contributed to the global amphibian assessment. Gold Coast (Australia) frog populations are dying from a deadly fungus that is devastating vulnerable species across the country and the world. The deadly chytrid fungus was first discovered in Australia near Brisbane in 1978 and within months had wiped out the first of many frog species. It affects more than 230 species of frogs and is believed to be responsible for eight extinctions in eastern Australia.

Esmeralda's good health is a good sign - at least in her local environment, but climate change and development are a threat. Yesterday, Esmeralda was getting a check-up at the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary's Community Wildlife Hospital and veterinary nurse Mimi Dona said the unusually large and "geriatric" frog had survived only because the people she had lived with had kept an eye on her. "They treat her like a wild animals and are really careful not to use pesticides," she said. Belinda Leigh-Steele of Tallai said Esmeralda had started living in her back yard about eight years ago. "She's the biggest frog I'd ever seen", said Belinda. "I bought a vase about four year ago and broke it on the way home, so I put it outside in the garden and now Esmeralda lives in it". "We made her a pond with an old baking dish and some rocks too". said Belinda who takes Esmeralda to the community hospital when she notices any problems with her. Mimi said the hospital was free for wildlife animals but needed funding to be rebuilt. "We've only got about a quarter of the funds needed and we hope Gold Coast people and businesses can help support us". Mimi said the hospital treated about 30 animals a day. "Our aim is to care from them and release them with the help of the community and carers".
Websites

The Animal Files is intended to be an animal encyclopedia but includes worldwide animals and is not strictly Australian. A huge resourceful site and this is the link to the frogs section.

Arachnids Identification Guide [Spiders]

LSmitheringale — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 19:59:03 CDT

Spiders

St Andrew's Cross Spider
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Birds Info Fresh Findings

LSmitheringale — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 05:12:59 CDT

Nest Boxes for Wildlife

LSmitheringale — Sun, 26 Jul 2009 06:30:19 CDT

Nest boxes for wildlife
Stephen Platt, 1999

To view the Adobe Acrobat file, you will need the Adobe Acrobat reader.

PDF 200 kb

The role of nest boxes
A range of native animals require the natural hollows that develop in trees and some shrubs for shelter and/or breeding. A comprehensive list is given in Land for Wildlife Note No. 6 'Wildlife needs natural tree hollows'.

The nest boxes described in this Note are not the equivalent of natural hollows. Natural hollows occur in vegetation at a specific time in the development of the plant community. If the plant community is severely disturbed, merely replacing hollows with a substitute is no compensation for the other changes to that habitat such as disruption and loss of food sources from understorey shrubs and interference with the natural cycles that maintain the health of the ecosystem. It takes over 100 years for natural hollows to develop. Many eucalypts live for hundreds of years providing safe hollows for many generations. The nest boxes described here will last up to ten years.

Nest boxes are used by people who want to observe the wildlife occurring in their area and something of its natural history in a convenient location. In some instances nest boxes have been used as substitutes for a lack of natural hollows and as a research tool. Once again, it should be emphasized that artificial hollows are no substitute for real hollows. As a first step in assisting wildlife you should consider how natural hollows can be protected in your area and make provision for the development of natural hollows, should they be in short supply, by re-establishing local native vegetation. Natural hollows are often destroyed during firewood collection, fencepost cutting, land clearance, burning and timber harvesting. Think about how you might reduce the impact of these practices in your area. DON'T use hollow logs for nest boxes. Natural hollows are valuable resources for wildlife and should be left in place on a tree or on the ground.

How do I build a nest box?

General nest box requirements

1A space will allow for ventilation.
For weather protection the lid must slope from the back and overhang the front by at least 25mm. It should also overhang the sides. DO NOT use sheet metal on the lid, timber has superior insulating qualities.
20mm deep woodshavings, decayed wood or shredded bark should cover the floor.
Fix a mounting strip to blocks attached to the back of the box to make attachment to a tree trunk easier. Pre-drill nail holes in the strip to prevent splitting and use 100mm galvanized flat-head nails.
Box must be stable. A slight forward lean will assist drainage and exit by young.
Place box at least 3m above ground.
Arrange timber so that growth rings radiate away from the centre of the box. Subsequent 'warping' will force the box together rather than apart.
A hinged lid or front panel extending 2/3 depth of the box and angle cut for drainage permits inspection and cleaning out after use.
Floor should be recessed inside walls, loose knots glued in place with PVA (non toxic) and any gaps that do occur sealed with a quality mastic.
Use galvanised/nickel-plated screws to join all parts.
Nesting boxes are best made from rough-sawn plantation-grown timber so animals can get a grip and should be about 19-25mm thick to provide insulation. DO NOT use treated timber, toxic paints, chipboard, smelly glues or leave any sharp objects such as projecting nails or screws. Avoid wood that is inclined to warp.
Entrance hole should be no bigger than is necessary for the animal the box is intended to house (a critical dimension). Placing the hole near the top will ensure that inside of box is dark.
Inside walls must have toe holds so the young can climb out.
Use rough-sawn timber, roughen up with coarse sandpaper or notch with a circular saw before assembly.
Three small (<10mm) drainage holes should be drilled in the floor towards the front (lower side). Avoid creating an updraft.
Box must be weatherproof and dark inside.

Side view

Layout of wood showing grain orientation to compensate for cupping (warping).

After assembly, paint the outside of the box with three coats of non-toxic dark-coloured outdoor water-based acrylic paint.
Layout of wood showing grain orientation to compensate for cupping (warping).

Table 1: Inside dimensions (all in millimetres) All depths are minimum. Many other native species use hollows. See Note 6 for a complete list. Some species that will use the general nest box design

	A (height)	B (depth)	C (width)	D Entrance
Brushtail Possum (also suits ducks)	500	250	290	100-120
Ringtail Possum	400	240	200	70-80
Sugar Glider/ Tuan	400	240	200	32-35/ 35-40
Rosellas	400	240	200	70
Red-rumped Parrot	400	190	170	60
Treecreepers	400	190	170	45-50
Owlet nightjar	400	190	170	45-50
Ducks - Grey Teal, Chestnut Teal	500	250	290	100
Black duck	"	"	"	130

Horizontal box for Kookaburras, etc.
Young kookaburras and other kingfishers need to excrete from the front of the box so a small sill (<40mm, don't forget to allow for shavings) is desirable. Notes as for general design.

Box for pardalotes
Internal diameter of entrance pipe must be 30mm. (Class 12, 25mm water pipe has ID = 30, OD = 32)

Table 2: Species using horizontal box

	A (depth)	B (height)	C (width)	D Entrance
Laughing Kookaburra	600	150-200	290
Grey Shrike Thrush (lid on box not essential)	200-300	150-200	150-200

Bat roost box
Comments for general box design plus:

Bats prefer an entrance at the bottom, hence the alternative design.
Roughen all internal surfaces with shallow, horizontal saw cuts.
Use 25mm rough-sawn timber.
You could experiment with hanging some hessian from the inside roof or reduce the cavity.

Bottom view

There must be a tight seal at all joints to avoid draughts.
Install on tree, clear of branches, or on wall of house, under eave.
Internal dividers and greater dimensions will potentially house a larger colony. Bats prefer tight surrounds.
Don't open the box when it is occupied by bats. Watch at dusk for exit of bats.
Spraying the box with guano (bat droppings) and water may help to attract bats.

Where do I place the nest box?
Nest boxes should be placed out of reach of human hands, to avoid vandalism, and potential predators, such as cats. The site may be in a tree or dense shrub or an inaccessible place around a dam, swamp or over water (these boxes will only be used by birds). Some species, such as bats, may prefer a more open site. Duck boxes don't have to be over water. If you are fortunate enough to have bats move into your bat box, you could find that the local mosquito problem is largely taken care of whilst they are there.

The nest box should be given protection from weather, including cold, rain and the direct heat of the sun. Fixing boxes just south of east, about 110o magnetic, has been found to be satisfactory. Bats may appreciate some warmth, particularly in cool climates. You may need to try various orientations and exposure. The entrance should face away from prevailing winds and rain.

The nest box must be firmly attached to its support. 100 mm galvanised nails can be used. Any type of strapping around the supporting plant must take account of the future growth of the plant and so is best avoided. Place a nail in the tree first to support the box then lift the nest box onto it and finish attachment.

Read all you can about the natural nest site of the species for which your box is intended and try to imitate this as much as possible. Some experimentation with box design and placement may be necessary. Note that some mammals, such as Phascogales, can have large litters and build substantial nests. These species may need a box size that is much greater than needed for one animal. You might like to design boxes for species not shown in this Note, such as goannas and Yellow-bellied Gliders.

Pardalote Box

Sugar Glider nest box in position on a tree trunk

Problems you might encounter
Pest species are a major concern. Starlings, mynas, sparrows, honey bees, Black Rats, feral cats and other introduced species may take advantage of the nest box. Their occupation of natural hollows is a concern for the conservation of wildlife. These species may be humanely destroyed. Natural nest predators, including owls, goannas and hawks are a part of the natural ecosystem and may be themselves endangered by introduced species. These native species are protected native wildlife and must not be harmed.

Regular (weekly) inspection of the nest box is necessary to prevent its use by pest species. Should a nest box be frequented by a pest species you may need to close it off for a period, remove the nesting materials and/or eggs of a pest bird and close the box for a period, control access by selection of an appropriate entrance hole size (70mm prevents Brush-tailed Possums, 45mm prevents Common Mynas, 35-40mm prevents Starlings, 28mm prevents House Sparrows and 26mm prevents Tree Sparrows), completely remove the box and look for an alternative location or desist from using nest boxes and concentrate on habitat protection and production. If Starlings are seen in a box, check to see that they haven't removed nesting material. Parrots do not provide their own nesting material and so you may need to replace it. Black Rats will be home during the day when they can be caught. Unlike most native animals Black Rats build nests using any suitable material including man-made materials such as newspaper.

Phascogales and Antechinus may also use a variety of materials so it is best not to discard the nest until you are certain of its occupant's identity. Honey Bees can be removed by suspending a pest strip on a wire inside the box for a couple of days. Place the strip inside the box at night when the cold will keep the bees quiet. This will kill the bees and they will have to be removed. Alternatively, see if a local apiarist will remove the bees. Remember that pest species have a major impact on native wildlife through competition for scarce resources and predation. Please do not give them any assistance. If nest boxes are placed within a woodland or open forest habitat, greater than sixty metres from the edge, they will not be used by starlings, mynas or sparrows. It is recommended that you DO NOT feed wildlife. Placing a feeding station within a nesting territory (approx 50 metre radius for rosellas) will disturb nesting activity as the nest guardians will waste time chasing away other species tempted by the food source.

Once a nest box is occupied by a native species, the temptation to look inside the box should be avoided. Regular observation from outside will indicate what is going on. You might like to keep a log of these observations. Frequent inspection is very likely to lead to desertion of the nest box.

Don't be surprised if your box isn't used for some time. Wildlife, such as rosellas, may use the nest box almost immediately, if erected at the correct time (late Winter-early Spring for rosellas). Other species may take longer.

Note that under the Wildlife Act 1975 it is illegal to be in possession of protected wildlife. This means that you cannot interfere with or restrain protected wildlife in any way.

Living with Possums
Under natural conditions the Common Brushtail Possum makes its den in a tree hollow. However, it may also seek daytime shelter in the roof of a house, particularly where natural hollows are in short supply. Nest boxes can form part of the solution to ridding a house of this possum. Note that Common Brushtail Possums are territorial. Removing a possum from your roof without taking any further steps will simply leave a vacant territory which may soon be re-occupied by another possum. The Common Ringtail Possum usually builds a nest or drey of twigs and leaves, in dense foliage such as Paperbarks, a few metres above the ground. It seldom enters house roofs.
Like all other native animals, possums are protected under the Wildlife Act 1975. They must not be harmed in any way or retained without an authority from the Department of Sustainability and Environment.

To live with possums:

Block all access to your roof by placing collars made from sheet iron, 60cm wide and 60cm above the ground, around the trunks of all trees giving access to the roof or lopping branches which lead to the roof.
Make or buy a nest box and install it nearby as an alternative den site for the possum.
Block all known entrance points to the roof once possums have left. If you cut off all known access points, as in 1 above, possums will still be able to leave but not return.

Collars can also be used to keep possums out of fruit trees. Ornamental plants or fruit being eaten by possums may be protected by placing blood and bone fertiliser around the base of plants or by making a solution of hot english mustard (mustard powder and water) which can be sprayed or painted on the affected fruits or foliage.

Trapping and removal of possums is not recommended. Released possums may displace other wildlife from hollows, they may cause problems for plants in release areas through overbrowsing or may be killed by cars, foxes or dogs as they attempt to home or compete with the local possums for a den site. Hence, provision of an alternative den site by placement of a nest box in a suitable location is an appropriate part of the solution to removing possums from your roof. Other species, including Brush-tailed Phascogales, may also choose to live inside a house and may be dealt with similarly.

If you do decide to have a possum removed from your roof then you should contact a pest controller authorised by the Department of Sustaiability and Environment to trap possums (they are listed under 'Pest Control' in the Yellow Pages telephone directory).

Living with Bats
Bats may also frequent a house and may take up residence in the wall cavities or roof. As a protected species they may not be harmed. A simple method of removing bats from a house, with one or few manageable entrances to the roof or walls, is to place a bat exclusion flap over each entrance. Provision of alternative accommodation outside the house for bats may encourage them to stay around and keep down insect numbers. Bats are able to use extremely small entrances. Further information on how to deal with wildlife problems is available from the DPI/DSE Customer Service Centre, Tel. 136 186.

Bat exclusion (one way) flap

References

McCulloch, E. & Thomas, R., (1986) Nest Boxes for Australian Birds, 2nd ed., Bird Observers Club of Australia, brochure.
The Yarra Book, an urban wildlife guide, MMBW.
Stebbings, B. and Walsh, S., (1985), Bat Boxes: A guide to their History, Function, Construction and Use in the Conservation of Bats, The Flora and Fauna Preservation Soc., Britain.
Heinrichs, J., (1987), Build your own bat house, reprinted in NSW Zoological Soc. Mammal Section newsletter, March 1987.

Comments by Leigh Ahern, John Burtonclay, Lindy Lumsden, Peter Menkhorst, Jim Reside and Ian Temby.

Further reading:

Wildlife needs natural tree hollows, Land for Wildlife Note No. 6.
Fleming, A., (1986), Tree Hollows for Wildlife, Bird Observers Club of Australia.
Home is a Hole, Healesville Sanctuary Education Service (contains additional size recommendations),
Strahan, R. (ed.), (1983), The Complete Book of Australian Mammals, Angus and Robertson.

A list of suppliers of ready made nest boxes, including bat boxes, is available from your Land for Wildlife Extension Officer .

The advice provided in this publication is intended as a source of information only. Always read the label before using any of the products mentioned. The State of Victoria and its employees do not guarantee that the publication is without flaw of any kind or is wholly appropriate for your particular purposes and therefore disclaims all liability for any error, loss or other consequence which may arise from you relying on any information in this publication.

Original Source: Victorian Department of Primary Industries

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LINKS/ WEBSITES/BLOGS

Nesting Boxes for Australian Wildlife

courtesy of Nesting Boxes for Australian Wildlife Website

Possums in your Roof

LSmitheringale — Sun, 26 Jul 2009 06:16:36 CDT

Original Source: Nesting Boxes for Australian Wildlife

In their natural environment, possums usually live in tree hollows but with the loss of native bushland many of these natural homes have been destroyed. Being highly territorial, possums do not relocate easily and so they sometimes seek safe shelter in your roof.
If a possum has made its home in your roof, follow these steps to remove the possum and ensure that it does not return.
1. Provide an alternative home for the possum by constructing or purchasing a sturdy weatherproof possum-house.
2. Where possible, get inside your roof and locate the possum’s nest. The nest, which has the scent of the possum, should be placed in the new possum-house to encourage the possum to its new home.
3. Securely fix the possum-box to a tree in or near your yard. Place it at least 4 metres (12 feet) from the ground so the possum will be out of reach of domestic cats and dogs.
4. To encourage the possum to investigate its new home, put half an apple or banana in or near the possum-house.
5. Trim any branches that overhang the roof to remove access to your roof.
6. Spread some quassia chips throughout the roof cavity to repel the possum. These chips come from quassia plants, which are native to Central and South America. You can usually find quassia chips at hardware stores, or your local pharmacy may be able to order some for you.
If you can’t find quassia chips, you could repel the possum by spreading eight blocks of camphor or one or two boxes of mothballs throughout the roof cavity. Do not use both camphor and moth balls as they react chemically with each other.
7. Have an electrician install a sensor light in the roof cavity and it will switch on and off as the possum runs past. The combination of the light and the smell should drive the possum out of your roof and hopefully into the possum-box you have provided.
8. If you do not hear the possum for a few nights, it has probably found a new home. To prevent the possum from returning, block off the access points into your roof with timber, chicken wire or both. Night-time is the best time to block off the access points as the possum will have left to forage for food. Do not block off the access points unless you are certain the possum or possums have left your roof.
If this does not deter the possum, you may need to trap the possum.

Electronic Repellents
It might be worth researching into the idea of deterring the possum using electronics. An Pest control company (http://www.birdgard.com.au/bird-pest-control/pest-control/possum-control.htm) has a product that could keep the possums away. This would be an ideal solution particularly if you have a roof space which is mostly inaccessible.
Where to get a possum trap
Possums are protected in WA. Traps are available for hire from your local council or some pest control companies or a pest control company can trap the possum for you. Remember to block off the access points into your roof and to provide a possum-house if you intend to try trapping.

What happens to the possum after it’s caught
The possum must be released back onto your property at dusk. Bushland areas rarely have any vacant territories, so if you were to release the possum in another area, it would have to search and compete with other possums for shelter and food in unfamiliar territory.

Making friends with a possum
By providing a possum house, you are encouraging the possum to stay and claim your yard as its territory. The possum will then discourage other possums from moving into your roof and yard. By making friends with a possum, you can help to conserve the species and learn about their way of life at the same time.

Cats and Wildlife

LSmitheringale — Sun, 26 Jul 2009 05:55:09 CDT

Cats and wildlife - how you can protect both
Stephen Platt, August 1999

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Where is your cat at the moment? Could it be attacking wildlife or crossing a road? Is it safe from dogs? Is it identified so it can be returned to you if it gets lost? The information in this Note will help you to better protect your cat and wildlife.

Background
Cats are present throughout Victoria, as domestic pets, free-living strays, or as truly feral animals. Estimates in all these categories suggest that there are well over one million cats in the State.

Cats are obligate carnivores, that is, they must feed on animal protein. Each cat requires a minimum of 100-150g of protein each day, more if a female is nursing a litter. This means that an equivalent of at least seven small mammals, such as native Bush Rats, must be eaten each week by each cat.

Even cats that are well fed, apparently contented pets, will instinctively hunt and kill living creatures. An average of 32 wild animals may be killed by each pet cat every year. Each feral cat can kill many more. The potential impact on wildlife is enormous.

What impact do cats have on wildlife?
Cats are known to kill and eat more than 100 native Australian species of birds, 50 mammals, 50 reptiles, three frogs and numerous invertebrate animals. As more knowledge is obtained more animals continue to be added to the list.

Cats are a major threat to wildlife in the bush, where they are common and occur in most habitats, as well as in towns and cities. For example, in 1992, in response to a plague of native rats in south-west Queensland, where the endangered native Bilby survives, feral cat numbers were observed to be at high levels. The Australian Army was called in to assist with control and, to the amazement of wildlife managers, shot 417 cats in four days within 20 km of the Bilby site. Up to six cats were shot out of a single tree in one day! Of interest is that the high cat numbers were on a cattle station on which dingo control was rigourous. Neighbouring stations, with more dingos, had less cats. Cats can survive on water from prey in areas where drinking water is unavailable.

In Australia, cats (and dogs) have no natural predators. The hunting methods of cats are different to native predators, such as quolls, and so native wildlife has few inbuilt defences against cats.

Cats are most active at night, and especially at dusk and dawn. This coincides with the activity periods of much of our Australian wildlife, placing native animals at risk.
Cats kill prey of up to their own body size; most of Australia’s endangered and vulnerable mammals are in this size category.

Cats can significantly control bird populations. Studies in South Australia indicate that domestic cats probably kill the 'standing crop' of birds, (i.e. the same number are killed as are produced each year).

Cats are significant predators on small mammals. In 15 months one wildlife shelter in Melbourne received 272 native mammals with injuries that resulted from cat attacks; 242 of these were Common Ringtail Possums. Almost all died as a result of the attacks.

Cats have also been responsible for the death of at least 25% of all Sugar Gliders registered in the former Wildlife Management Branch (now DSE) collection.

Cat’s mouths can carry bacteria to which wildlife has little resistance, and wildlife that has been injured by cats usually dies - if not from injuries, then from infection.

Cats are the definitive host of the blood protozoan disease Toxoplasmosis which can affect wildlife, sheep and humans. It can cause unco-ordination, blindness, erratic movement and unnatural daytime activity. Toxoplasmosis is often fatal for infected wildlife. It can have effects on reproduction (the disease can cause abortion in sheep and humans). Endangered Eastern Barred Bandicoots are at threat not only through direct predation by cats but from infection with the disease. It probably predisposes affected bandicoots to predation by cats or dogs and to road trauma.

Research into the reintroduction of rare mammals onto mainland Australia has found that, when foxes are controlled, cat numbers increase, continuing the attack on native species. Similarly, because rabbit is a significant part of feral cat diet in many (especially rural) areas, rabbit control without cat control may lead to increased predation on wildlife. Hence, an integrated pest animal control program is essential.

Cats also have an indirect impact on plant pollination by reducing numbers of native birds.

Although habitat alteration and hunting are also important factors, cats have been responsible for the extinction of over 30 species of birds around the world.

Cats have been the cause of decline and extinction of many bird species on a large number of islands including New Zealand, Macquarie Island, Socorro Island (Mexico), Ascension Island, the Kermadec group, Marion Island and many others. There are also records of mammals and reptiles being similarly affected - for example the endemic rodents of the Galapagos are now only found on islands without cats, and in Western Australia at least two species of now-endangered species of marsupial (Banded Hare-wallaby and Golden Bandicoot) have become extinct on the Monte Bello Islands due to cats.

Pet cats kill an average of 16 mammals, 8 birds and 8 reptiles every year. 900 000 pet cats by 32 wildlife each per year = 29 million wildlife.

Feral cats each need to eat the equivalent of seven native bush rats or ten native birds each week. 200 000 feral cats by 10 wildlife by 52 weeks = 104 million wildlife.

Stray cats in cities kill on average 5 wildlife each week. 300 000 cats by 5 wildlife by 52 weeks = 78 million wildlife.

GRAND TOTAL = 211 million wildlife killed by cats in Victoria each year!

On farms
Toxoplasmosis in sheep, spread by cat faeces, can result in abortions, stillborn lambs, and a reduced lambing percentage. It is the most common cause of infectious abortions in sheep flocks in south-eastern Australia. Cats also carry the stock disease Sarcosporidiosis. Sarcocystis infection can result in carcase condemnation at the abattoir. Cats spread these diseases by contaminating pasture, hay and other animal foods with the parasite via their faeces. They in turn are contaminated by eating rodents, birds and wildlife which contain cysts of the parasite. Farmers who wish to avoid the risk to livestock of toxoplasmosis should not let cats near their pastures.

Pet cats - what can I do to protect my cat and wildlife?
Clearly, there is a need to act to reduce the impact of cats on wildlife and a range of measures are available that can also lead to safer living conditions for pet cats.

It may seem like a major change to the way you have viewed the life and entitlements of your pet cat to consider placing restrictions on it. Improving the care of your cat by limiting its behaviour is comparable to placing restrictions on children for their safety and to teach them to live alongside others.

The path to improved cat care can be direct or you may choose to improve control over time (see How else can I help protect wildlife?). You may choose not replace your cat when it dies or to change to a breed more suited to confinement at this time.

Why keep your cat confined?
By keeping your cat confined to your property at all times, and indoors or in a special enclosure or cattery between dusk and dawn, you will protect your cat and Victoria’s wildlife better. Confining your cat will ensure its safety and well-being.

Cats not kept at home can be killed or injured - on roads, in fights, through disease or by acts of cruelty. They can catch feline AIDS from stray or feral cats. Wandering cats may mate and produce unwanted litters and are easily stolen. Why expose your cat to these dangers?

Cats are wonderful companions - they are affectionate and intelligent and they enjoy your company. Yet, in Melbourne alone, over 45 000 cats end up in animal shelters each year. Few have identification and only 1% are reclaimed by their owners. Most are humanely euthanased.

Is it cruel to confine my cat?
No - because suburban and rural environments pose too many risks to allow pet cats complete freedom. The average life span of a cat kept inside is 12 years. That of a cat allowed to roam at will is just three years.

If you provide all their needs, desexed cats are happy to live in a suitable enclosed area. Cats don’t have an ‘innate’ need to roam - they need exercise and play as well as around 19 hours of sleep each day.

Many cats become better pets and live long, healthy and contented lives inside a house or flat, often for 24 hours a day.

How can I confine my cat?
Keep it inside (especially at night). Train your cat by feeding it inside before dusk and not letting it out before dawn.

Build a cattery
There are a great many options. Free-standing or attached enclosures can be constructed. Alternatively, use can be made of existing structures such as the garage or an unused aviary. Commercial cat enclosures are available. The diagram (above) provides some suggestions. If you wish to observe a cattery before building, contact a Land for Wildlife extension officer, local veterinarian or other contacts listed in this Note to see if they can assist you.

What are my cat’s needs when enclosed?
Overnight - food, water, a litter tray and a warm, dry, draught-free sleeping area.

For longer periods - facilities for exercise, climbing, several resting places at various heights, and shelter from wind, sun, rain, cold and hot weather. A scratching and climbing pole is a must - up to 2.5m tall, with 2-3 perches. Provide cat toys (available at good pet shops) and help your cat to exercise daily by encouraging it to play, run and jump. Install window perches for your cat to sunbathe on, or a cat-door for access to an enclosed area outside.

The RSPCA and Cat Protection Society can provide more advice on confining your cat.

Why should I desex my cat?
Desexing your cat is one way you can show you care for it and wildlife. There are numerous benefits including:

A desexed pet is easier to own and care for. Desexed male and female animals are less stressed by reproductive or territorial demands and make better pets. Many people say a desexed pet is more pleasurable to own. Cats won’t wander or fight as much and are less noisy and odourous if desexed.
A desexed pet does not tend to have the occasional unwelcome habits of entire animals, such as urinating on the carpet in the corner of the loungeroom.
Desexing is better for your cat's health. Female cats can suffer physical and nutritional exhaustion if continually breeding.
More desexed cats means fewer unwanted litters of kittens.
Fewer strays also means more protection for humans, other companion animals, wildlife and the environment.
Uncontrolled breeding results in large numbers of unwanted cats joining the stray and feral populations. Most suffer through disease and injury, and many prey on native wildlife to survive.

Are some cat breeds better suited to indoors?
Yes. The good old moggie, and many other long and short-haired breeds, like the Russian Blue, are happy being indoors at all times.

The 'Selectapet' computer program (03-329 5438 or 008-33 1783) will help you choose the right cat, as can your local vet or an animal welfare agency.

What can be done about feral cats?
Cats that belong to someone are legally recognised as chattels. It is illegal to harm or damage another person's belongings under common law. Therefore, if you wish to take action against cats on your property that are presumed feral, you must advise your neighbours in advance of your intention to control cats so that they can prevent their cat wandering onto your property. A means of permanently identifying cats would obviously help solve this problem of ownership (see page 4). Spotlight shooting or cage trapping, (followed by humane euthanasia by a veterinarian), are the main methods used to control feral cats. Pet food can be used as a bait in the cage trap. Research into baiting techniques is continuing. Cats can legally be controlled in areas designated under the National Parks Act 1975.

DPI undertakes target-specific control where there is an urgent problem (e.g. endangered species threatened). Because feral cats are continually being replenished by lost pets we need to effectively separate pet populations from unowned cats (by desexing and identification) to achieve control.

How else can I help protect wildlife?

Put bells on your cat's collar.
One bell is not enough. Put three large bells on the collar, two under the cat's chin and the other opposite. Bells do not stop cats killing wildlife - they only make a difference in one out of three attacks. Keeping your cat inside stops all cat attacks on wildlife.

Use a harness to walk your cat outside.
Training your cat to walk with a cat harness (dog leashes are not suitable) is fun, easy and rewarding for you and your cat.

Provide cat-free environments.
If your cat uses the backyard because you have a cat-proof fence around the property, provide cat-free environments by enclosing shrubs and trees with ‘floppy wire’ fences. This provides a safe haven for native wildlife and you’ll find that lots of birds use the area, especially if you include nectar-producing plants and water.

Choose to not replace your cat when it dies.
This is a cheap option but has no effect in the short-term unless other control measures are adopted.

Spread the message about better care for cats and protection for wildlife.
Only increasing community awareness through education will change attitudes toward management of cats. You can play an important role by spreading the message and discussing the issues. Obtain free pamphlets or copies of this Note from major DSE/DPI offices.

Answers to other commonly-asked questions
Why put all this effort into cats when dogs, habitat destruction and foxes cause a greater impact?
Because cats DO kill millions of wild animals each year and contribute significantly to wildlife losses AND because this is a problem we can all do something about.

Aren’t foxes more significant wildlife predators than cats?
Possibly. However, cat predation is a significant component of the overall toll on wildlife by introduced predators. When foxes are controlled feral cat numbers can build up and continue the damage caused by foxes. Action is also being taken against foxes (see LFW Note 24).

Haven’t cat and native wildlife numbers reached a new equilibrium?
No. Overall, wildlife numbers and species diversity continue to decline, and cats are a significant contributor to this trend.

What native wildlife is most affected?
Small ground-nesting and feeding animals.

How can we protect all the wildlife that is active during the day?
Keep your cat confined during the day as well as at night.

I live 2km from the nearest patch of bush, so why do I have to confine or curfew my cat?
Wildlife is everywhere, and often those populations protected by parks and reserves depend on areas outside reserves for their future. Cats, especially males, can travel many kilometres if they are permitted to do so.

Are cats effective ratters and mousers?
No. Cats will kill some rats and mice (including native rodents) but are unlikely to eliminate these pests from an area. Rodents are a source of the disease toxoplasmosis (see page 1 and 2). Around the home and farm the presence of accessible food sources is a major attractant for pest rodents. Store grain in rodent-proof silos or cupboards, contain garbage and clean up any spills. Rodent-specific poisons, available in supermarkets and elsewhere, are an efficient short-term way of treating a localised rodent problem. Plagues of rodents are linked to environmental variables, not to the degree of cat predation.

Do cats control snakes?
No. Having a cat is no deterrent to snakes and cats can be killed by snakes. If you are concerned about snakes around your house you can reduce your chance of encountering a snake by making the local environment less attractive for them; remove piles of rubbish and other shelter, keep grass near the house short and locate garden ponds (which attract frogs, a favourite food of snakes) away from children's play areas. ALWAYS BE ALERT in areas where snakes may occur.

Isn’t a cattery just another word for a cage or a jail?
No. A well-designed cattery will provide all your cat's needs and protect it from the many dangers of living outside.

Don’t catteries cost an arm and a leg?
No. Catteries can be as expensive or cheap as your design imagination. Low-cost catteries can be made using chicken wire and stakes.

What diseases is my cat exposed to while roaming?
Feline Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome (Feline AIDS), toxoplasmosis and others.

What is Toxoplasmosis?
Toxoplasmosis is a disease caused by the protozoan blood parasite Toxoplasma gondii. Cats are the definitive host, and intermediate hosts include many species of wildlife, and humans (see page 1). Affected cats do not show any visual external signs of the disease.

How adaptable are cats to being inside at night and at other times?
As adaptable as their owners. After a short adjustment period, cats are content to remain indoors. Often owners don’t believe their cat will adjust happily and so do not proceed with training. Many cats become better pets and establish a new relationship with their owners when kept inside.

How often does a cat come ‘in season’?
Cats may come into season six or eight times a year depending on whether they mate or fall pregnant. There is usually a short break in the breeding cycle in winter.

What is desexing?
Desexing is the surgical removal of a female animal’s ovaries or a male animal’s testicles. This results in permanent sterility for the animal. A desexed cat cannot reproduce.

Isn’t it cruel to have a cat desexed?
No. It is cruel to subject your cat to unnecessary health problems associated with pregnancy. An entire cat kept inside will suffer frustration and may become neurotic. It is cruel not to desex your cat.

How much does desexing cost?
Costs vary and increase as pets get older and/or fatter. Rates for vets in private practice are about: male cat $40, female cat $80. The RSPCA, through its immature animal desexing clinic, offers professional desexing at lower rates. For more information, call the RSPCA on (03) 808 5111. Enquire about the Dog and Cat Desexing Voucher Schemes offered by the Australian Veterinary Association.

Who can desex animals? When is the best time to desex an animal?
Desexing is a surgical procedure performed by a registered veterinary surgeon. Females are best desexed at age 5 - 6 months and males age 6-8 months.

Will my pet cat get fat if it is desexed?
Not necessarily. A desexed animal will only get fat if it is fed too much and not given enough exercise. The calorie intake requirements of cats are lowered by desexing so do not over-feed your cat.

Shouldn’t I allow my cat to have a litter before desexing it?
Desexing should be performed before full maturity is attained. Having a litter neither adds to, nor detracts from, a male or female cat’s personality.

Why do we need registration as well as identification?
Registration will help you find your cat and others to return it if it gets lost. It also provides a way to offer incentives for owners to desex their animals by way of differential registration fees. Identification is necessary so that we can separate owned and unowned cats for control.

How can registered animals be identified?
By microchip implant, or tattoo and collar and tag. The microchip provides registration details and collar and tag allows for visual identification.

What if I no longer want to keep my cat?
If owners find they are no longer able to keep their cat, they should seek to rehouse it themselves, or take it to an animal shelter for rehousing or humane euthanasia.

Contacts
Cat Protection Society (03) 434 7155, Lort Smith Animal Hospital (03) 328 3021, Lost Dogs Home and Western Suburbs Cat Shelter (03) 329 2755, RSPCA (03) 808 5111, local veterinarians and councils.

References and further reading.
A detailed list of references is contained in 'The Cat Kit' - available to inspect at some DPI offices.
This Note was produced from material and comments supplied by the Cat Working Group of the former Department of Conservation and Natural Resources.

The advice provided in this publication is intended as a source of information only. Always read the label before using any of the products mentioned. The State of Victoria and its employees do not guarantee that the publication is without flaw of any kind or is wholly appropriate for your particular purposes and therefore disclaims all liability for any error, loss or other consequence which may arise from you relying on any information in this publication.

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Willie Wagtail goes for a ride!

“It’s not an unusual sight at all,” Kay says. “The birds have always lived near our house and have always harassed our cat.” Read more by clicking on the picture....

Feeding Wildlife

LSmitheringale — Sun, 26 Jul 2009 05:34:51 CDT

Encountering wildlife without feeding
Stephen Platt, 1999

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Introduction
Feeding wildlife is an exceptionally popular activity and most people will have done it at some time. But is it a good idea? This Note looks at the pros and cons of feeding wildlife so that you can make better decisions about your own actions.

The main reason people feed wildlife is to have a close encounter with a wild animal. This Note also looks at how close encounters can be obtained without harming wildlife or posing a risk to humans.

Feeding wildlife - issues
There are a number of convincing arguments against feeding wild animals. They include:

potential dependence on fluctuating food sources supplied by humans, rather than natural sources;
inadequate dietary balance;
alteration to the community structure of the animal population, due to increased resources, with potential consequences for other species of plants and animals;
the potential for transmission of diseases or harmful chemicals as a result of contamination of the food or feeding location or direct transmission between animals at the feeding station. The feeding station may also act as a focus for predators.
potential conflicts arising between human social and economic needs, and wildlife, including human disease transmission.

Case studies

Choughs and orchids
White-winged Choughs live in eucalypt forests and woodlands, in colonial groups of 2-20 individuals, where their main natural food source is invertebrates. Choughs are large native birds and are an important part of natural ecosystems. They have a lot of character and many landholders enjoy their company.

To the north of Melbourne, Chough numbers have apparently increased as a result of regular feeding with bread supplied by local landholders. When not being supplied with food from our larder, Choughs seek natural foods. Because Choughs are very systematic feeders, working together to locate food items, they can cause considerable disturbance to the bush. One food item that can be severely affected is orchids. The Choughs dig up the orchid tubers, systematically excavating complete colonies.

This probably happens in nature to some extent. However, the artificially high numbers of Choughs, and acquired taste for high starch foods, such a bread supplied by people, is having major unnatural consequences for orchid populations in the foothill areas north of Melbourne and perhaps elsewhere. One particularly rare species of orchid has had to be placed in an enclosure to exclude Choughs. The problem is not the Choughs but the imbalance in their numbers brought about by feeding. Choughs would benefit from a healthier ground layer of twigs and leaves in which to forage for insect prey.

Sulphur-crested Cockatoos and house damage
Sulphur-crested Cockatoos can cause considerable damage to timber houses, in particular western red cedar window and door frames. Cockatoo beaks grow continuously and regular use is probably important to maintaining beak condition. In the wild, cockatoos have often been observed to bite off twigs and small branches from the trees they are resting in. Cockatoos also excavate holes in the wood of trees in search of wood-boring grubs and enlarge nest hollow entrances using their strong beaks. These activities might help explain why cockatoos like to chew wood.

A common factor, which indirectly contributes to the damage caused by cockatoos to houses, is the provision of food by the victim or a near neighbour which attracts the birds to the area.

Crimson Rosellas
A brilliantly coloured bird, the Crimson Rosella is exquisite to look at and readily becomes tame enough, when fed regularly, to alight on humans. In the wild, wattle and eucalypt seeds form a major part of the diet. At regular feeding sites, large numbers of rosellas may congregate in anticipation of food being provided. These groups typically include a lot of immature individuals which are naturally abandoned by their parents as they become independent.

Problems encountered by artificially fed birds include irregular supply (e.g. a lower number of holiday-makers at parks in winter leaves a reduced food supply), an unbalanced diet of seeds they would not encounter in the wild, and the flocking of starlings with rosellas. Starlings are introduced birds that compete with native wildlife for breeding hollows and can benefit from food left for native bird species.

Red Wattlebirds and beri-beri
Red Wattlebirds are raucous birds common in the dryer forests of Victoria and the suburbs of Melbourne. Occasionally, these birds have been found on the ground convulsing, always in winter months. Frequently, this symptom is followed by death. It has been suggested that the most probable cause of these deaths is thiamine deficiency. Such a disease, in humans, causes the nerve disease beri beri which is characterised by pain and paralysis of the extremities and accompanied by severe emaciation or swelling.

Red Wattlebirds collect their energy requirements from nectar, manna, honeydew or psyllids (sap-sucking insects) which are high in carbohydrates but low in protein. Like all honeyeaters, they require a supplement of insects which supply essential proteins. Red Wattlebirds ‘hawk’ a number of insects, big enough to supply the needs of this large bird and worth the energy expenditure, from the air each day for this reason. During winter there is a marked deficiency of large insects in Melbourne and so Red Wattlebirds normally migrate to northern Victoria where milder winters support more large insects.

Dr. David Paton, of Adelaide University, has suggested that development of the Melbourne suburbs, which has included planting many nectar-producing shrubs and trees (e.g. Western Australian eucalypts, such as Eucalyptus caesia, red-flowering Yellow Gum E. leucoxylon var. rosea, Red Ironbark E. sideroxylon and banksias) may have encouraged Red Wattlebirds to remain in Melbourne over winter. Sugar solutions supplied in bird feeders by humans may have also contributed to the reluctance of Red Wattlebirds to head north on their usual migration.

Dr. Paton has estimated that a Red Wattlebird would need to consume about 500 small insects per day to obtain the same protein (and thiamine) as is available from large insects during warmer months. This would be a major drain on the time and energy needed to collect and defend major carbohydrate sources (nectar producing plants, such as eucalypts).

So, the birds that remain behind may suffer from inadequate intake of thiamine and suffer the effects of beri beri.

Seed bells
Commercial seed bells are widely available. However, many questions remain unanswered about their potential effect on wild bird populations. What are the levels of pesticides in seed bell grain? What effect does indiscriminate artificial feeding have on wild bird populations? What other ingredients are consumed by birds using seed bells? Wood glues are used to bind the seed together in some bells. Are viable weed seeds present in seed bells that might be spread by birds?

Artificial feeding has the potential to disrupt the dietary balance of natural populations, attract predators, disrupt social behaviour and spread disease. Increased numbers of animals may affect other species in the area.

Kookaburras and minced meat
In nature, Kookaburra families vigorously defend areas of bushland against rival kookaburras. When confronted with their own reflection in a house window they may attack it, thinking it to be another individual. In one extreme case, ten windows were broken. Often the birds are first attracted by the landholder's food offerings. Minced meat, the food usually proffered, is not the same as natural dietary items.

Kangaroos
Kangaroos live in social groups and in the wild consume coarse native grasses and forbs. They are readily attracted to food offerings by humans. Complications that arise include attacks by males, asserting dominance on humans as they vie for female attention during the breeding season (kicks by the hind feet can cause serious injury), physical abnormalities, such as extended toe nail growth due to insufficient movement over hard surfaces, and increased incidence of the disease lumpyjaw which is caused by infection by several organisms entering the jaw around a tooth or via the gums. The main visual symptom of lumpyjaw is an open decaying wound around the jaw area.

The common name is derived from the response to infection whereby additional layers of bone are laid down around the infected area.

For the above reasons, and in the best interest of wildlife, Land for Wildlife recommends against the feeding of wildlife. However, in instances where it does occur, irregular feeding is preferable to regular feeding and quality foodstuffs from natural sources are better than manufactured products of unknown origin.

Weaning animals off human food sources
For wild animals that are partially dependent on food supplied by humans, it is best to reduce the supply over a period of time, thus forcing the animals to rely on natural sources whilst not causing an immediate food shortage. Wildlife that has been raised in captivity may be entirely dependent on human food sources and expert advice should be sought as to whether release to the wild is an option and legal. Sick or injured animals should be taken to a Wildlife Shelter where experienced carers can look after the animal. Contact flora and fauna staff at your nearest office of the Department of Primary Industries for advice.

How to encounter native wildlife without regular feeding
There are steps that you can take to increase your chances of encountering native wildlife without the need for regular feeding.

Habitat management
You can improve the management of habitat in the area that you visit to view wildlife. For example, by maintaining a healthy understorey and leaf and twig litter layer and eliminating weeds.

Near the home or viewing area, you may increase the wildlife visiting by planting local native food plants that provide nectar, fruits, different foraging substrates (e.g. bark types) and a shallow source of water for birds away from vegetation that could conceal predators. Old feathers, natural fibres (wool) and short stems of dried grass can be used to attract birds in the breeding season. Place them in a tree or shrub fork, away from potential danger from predators, near a place from where you can observe the animal whilst remaining concealed. A few nest boxes can be added to increase the chance of seeing hollow-nesting and roosting species near your home (see Land for Wildlife Note 14 'Nest boxes for wildlife').

Understanding wildlife
Increasing your knowledge of wildlife will help you to locate and view species. Become familiar with the habitats that animals use, their patterns of activity, where they breed, shelter and feed. Waterholes are often good observation points.

Learn how to determine which animals are in the area by looking for tracks and traces left by animals passing by and listening for the noises they make. For the more determined, remotely operated cameras and hides can be used to view wildlife with minimal disturbance. Some excellent audio tapes and videos are available but nothing beats learning from an experienced naturalist or researcher. Fortunately there are many naturalist clubs available in Victoria.

Learning about wildlife and searching for it in the wild, though less predictable than feeding, adds to the adventure of encountering wildlife. Alternatively, some species can be viewed at close hand in captivity (see 'zoos, sanctuaries and animal parks' in the Yellow Pages telephone directory).

Avoiding danger
Although most of our wildlife is harmless, close encounters with some species in the wild poses a degree of risk. Care should be taken whenever you are in bushland areas where the presence of dangerous wildlife may go undetected. Sturdy, protective clothing should be worn and first aid materials kept close at hand. Animals of unknown capacity should be regarded as dangerous until better information is obtained and are best avoided. Attempting to kill the animal increases the risk substantially.

Avoidance is a better solution. Close contact with animals during the breeding season should be avoided. Wildlife is more likely to be aggressive at this time and you are more likely to cause disturbance and stress to the animals or their young. Wildlife faeces should not be handled due to potential contamination by disease-causing organisms.

References and further information

Paton, D.C., Dorward, D.F. and Fell, P., (1983). Thiamine deficiency and winter mortality in Red Wattlebirds, Anthochaera carunculata (Aves: Meliphagidae) in suburban Melbourne. Aust. J. Ecol. 31:147-54.
Temby, I., (1992). A guide to living with wildlife: how to prevent and control wildlife damage in Victoria. Department of Conservation and Environment, Victoria.
Triggs, B., (1984). Mammal tracks and signs - a field guide for south-eastern Australia. Oxford University Press, Melbourne.
Wilson, J. (ed.), (1991). Victorian Urban Wildlife. Angus & Robertson, North Ryde.
Wilson, J. (ed.), (1992). Wildlife watching in Victoria. Department of Conservation and Environment and Lothian Books, Port Melbourne.

The advice provided in this publication is intended as a source of information only. Always read the label before using any of the products mentioned. The State of Victoria and its employees do not guarantee that the publication is without flaw of any kind or is wholly appropriate for your particular purposes and therefore disclaims all liability for any error, loss or other consequence which may arise from you relying on any information in this publication.

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Recommended Websites and Blogs

LSmitheringale — Sun, 26 Jul 2009 05:11:42 CDT

Please add sites which members may find interesting or informative re. Australian Wildlife and Nature under the suggested headings [or add new headings] with a brief description and link.

REFERENCE/EDUCATIONAL

Australia Zoo Website - great site with lots of info and pictures of Australian wildlife

Croaking Environment Resources - an online resource and information centre for everyone with an interest in the environment.

OzAnimals Website - presents photos and information covering a wide range of animals from Australia including mammals, birds, reptiles, frogs, fish and spiders.

Scribbly Gum - a site devoted to celebrating seasonal events in the natural world with a new story every month and an interactive forum. A great place for anyone who finds joy in observing the everyday wonders of Nature.

Mad About Morris - a site devoted to the wombat.

WILDLIFE/NATURE SITES

ANIMAL WELFARE AND CONSERVATION

Voiceless - An independent, non-profit think tank dedicated to alleviating the suffering of animals in Australia. Established by father and daughter team, Brian Sherman AM and Ondine Sherman.
National Wildlife Federation - a site which inspires Americans to protect wildlife for our children’s future.
Birds Australia - the oldest conservation organisation in Australasia, striving to conserve Australia’s native birds and their habitats by expanding scientific knowledge.
Koala Wrangler - a blog by a volunteer who helps care for sick and injured koalas at the Koala Hospital in Port Macquarie NSW Australia
Wildlife Victoria - A not for profit and volunteer based organisation that has been at the forefront of wildlife rescue and rehabilitation in Victoria since its formation in 1989.
RSPCA - an organisation whose aim is to prevent cruelty to animals by actively promoting their care and protection.
FAUNA - a group of dedicated volunteer wildlife carers who rescue and care for sick, injured or orphaned wildlife.

AUSTRALIAN WILDLIFE ARTIST/PHOTOGRAPHERS SITES

Lesley Smitheringale Fine Art
- a mix of art and photography showcasing Australian wildlife
- Garden Guests Diary

Oz Nature Niche
- a free community site which is exclusively for Australian artists, photographers and crafters

Caring for Wildlife

LSmitheringale — Sun, 26 Jul 2009 04:59:40 CDT

Here you can add any articles, sites, stories, pictures etc of caring for wildlife, rehabilitation, conservation, fundraising, rescue etc

WEBSITES AND BLOGS

Diary of a Koalawrangler Site

Samantha Carroll (koalawrangler) is one of 120 volunteers helping to care for sick and injured koalas at the Koala Hospital in Port Macquarie, NSW Australia. She's not a vet, scientist, or animal specialist — just someone who can’t imagine Australia without koalas in it... When she’s not koalawrangling, Sam is a PhD candidate in Creative Writing and Literary Studies.

Australian Koala Foundation
A Foundation whose aim is to help the koala with fundraising, adopt a koala, online shop, educational and conservation info....

R.S.P.C. A
The RSPCA is a community based charity that works to prevent cruelty to animals by actively promoting their care and protection.

Wildlife Victoria
A non profit and volunteer organisation of wildlife rescue & rehabilitation in Victoria since its formation in 1989.

Voiceless
“Voiceless will bring the institutionalised suffering of animals to the forefront of Australia’s agenda; ensuring that animal protection is the next great social justice movement.”

Fauna Org Australia
This National facility is home to the most comprehensive list of wildlife care groups in Australia. If your details should be listed here please let us know.

Endangered Species

LSmitheringale — Sun, 26 Jul 2009 04:44:57 CDT

Help save the Spotted-tailed Quoll

By: AG Society | June-24-2009

Help the Australian Geographic Society to safeguard our Quolls.

WHAT Spotted-tailed Quoll Dasyurus maculatus maculatus

WHERE East coast of Australia, from southern Queensland to Tasmania

WHY The spotted-tailed quoll is the second largest of the world’s surviving carnivorous marsupials
(the Tasmanian devil holds the title). Once abundant along the east coast of Australia, this nocturnal
species has endured a serious fall in numbers. More than 50 per cent of the spotted-tailed quoll’s
habitat in northern Tasmania has been cleared, leading to population declines similar to that on the
mainland.Nationally, the spotted-tailed quoll is listed as endangered, although it’s still considered
common in Tasmania. Habitat loss is a major concern – it leads to diminishing feeding grounds
and the fragmentation of breeding populations. Feral cats and foxes compete with the quoll for food.
These introduced predators have ravaged quoll populations.

In order to safeguard our quolls, we need to learn much more about these mysterious marsupials.
University of Tasmania PhD candidate, Shannon Troy, will study populations of spotted-tailed quolls
in north-western Tasmania to uncover their secrets. The results of her research will assist in the
protection of quoll populations across Tasmania and mainland Australia. Help save the spotted-quoll
DONATE $2 or more so the AG Society can raise $20,000 to help save the spotted-Quoll population
of Australia.
.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
THE TASMANIAN DEVIL IS NOW AN ENDANGERED SPECIES

Previously, the Tassie Devil, an iconic Australian species and the world’s largest surviving marsupial carnivore, was listed as vulnerable.

Environment Minister Peter Garrett said the change in status was because the species was under
continued threat and its population was continuing to decline. He said devils would now receive
greater protection under national environment law. “My decision to up-list the Tasmanian devil is
based on advice from the Threatened Species Scientific Committee which lists the Devil Facial
Tumour Disease as the major threat to the devil,” he said in a statement on Friday. “This disease
has led to the decline of about 70 per cent of the Tasmanian devil population since the disease was
first reported in 1996. “Fortunately, strong action is being taken to find out more about this disease
and to stop its spread.” Mr Garrett said the federal government had already committed $10 million
over five years to a program aimed at saving the Tasmanian Devil. He said that was to help with
research into disease transmission and treatment as well as to support captive and wild populations.
“My department will also continue to play an active role as part of the steering committee which
implements the Save the Tasmanian Devil program,” he said.
This article is from the Bundaberg News Mail © AAP

“Tuckered Out Trio of Tassie Terrors” graphite sketch by Terry Jackson
– Check out Terry’s profile on Oz Nature Niche

About Tasmanian Devils and the Disease from Save the Tasmanian Devil Website

The Tasmanian devil disease is a new disease, an infectious cancer, that is restricted to Tasmanian
devils. No affected animals were reported among the 2000-plus Tasmanian devils trapped by wildlife
biologists between 1964 and 1995. Once the cancer becomes visible, it always appears to be fatal –
usually within three months. Small lesions, or lumps, in and around the mouth quickly develop into l
arge tumours on the face and neck (and sometimes other parts of the body). Tasmanian devils with
facial tumours find it difficult to eat. Death results from starvation and the breakdown of body functions.
In diseased areas, nearly all the Tasmanian devils that are sexually mature (older than two years of age)
become infected and succumb to the disease. Juveniles as young as one year old can also be infected.
The Tasmanian devil (Sarcophilus harrisii) was given its common name by early European settlers, who were haunted at night by the sound of its spine-
chilling screeches and demonic growls. The largest of the living marsupial carnivores (and Australia’s only specialised mammalian scavenger), the
Tasmanian devil resembles a robustly-built, small dog with powerful jaws and a set of large, strong teeth.Its head is broad, its tail is thick, and its coarse,
black fur often has irregular-shaped white blazes across the chest, shoulders and rump. Despite its name, appearance and reputation, the Tasmanian
devil is actually a shy, wary creature. As for the reputed bad temper it’s mostly bluff. Since many individuals can feed simultaneously on a large carcass,
a feisty display is an attempt to intimidate others and thus avoid a fight. Today the Tasmanian devil is found only in the wild in Tasmania. It is wholly protected,
and a State icon.

Qantas continues helping to Save the Tassie Devil Qantas is helping save the Tasmanian devil from extinction, in partnership with the University of
Tasmania and the Tasmanian Government. Tassie devil donation sculptures placed Tasmanian National Park visitor centers, the Tasmanian
Mueseum and art Gallery and Hobart Launceston, Melbourne and Sydney domestic airports to collect donations for the Save the Tassie Devil Appeal
have so far raised over $42 000. The immense success of this Qantas initiative allowed us to recently award a further three Qantas scholarships during
the December 2007 Save the Tasmanian Devil Appeal Grant and Scholarship round . Most importantly the research Qantas is now supporting crosses
the most significant areas of the response to DFTD, including transmission, population modelling and immune responses and helps establish the
strongest foundation for breeding populations through assisting with their genetic diversity. In particular the work of Alex Kreiss has been critical in
identifying the possibility of a genetic group of devils who may be resistant to the disease. His research continues and helps direct the collection of the
ark population taking place during 2008.This latest research is beginning to have some positive outcomes and offers a real boost to ensuring our Tassie
devil roams wild for a long while to come. It would not have been possible without the commitment of Qantas to helping Save the Tasmanian Devil.

.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
ENDANGERED ANIMALS

It’s so sad to learn that these animals are facing possible extinction due to various causes
such as habitat destruction,competition from introduced species, deforestation and hunting.

Fijian-crested Iguana - a zookeeper holds one at Sydney’s Taronga Zoo. Only a few wild
populations remain of the endangered iguana which is found on several Fijian islands.

Matschie’s Tree Kangaroo - the only one at the Singapore Zoo, is seen in the Fragile Forest
section which houses animals in danger of extinction. Papua New Guinea, long derided for
allowing widespread illegal logging, has created a conservation areas the size of Singapore
to protect the bear-like, tree kangaroos and other endangered species.

Slow Loris – an endangered species in Gauhati, India. The Slow Loris, the name given
because of slow pace of its strides has no tail, is pygmy sized and sports two beautiful
and large eyes but a toxic bite.

Mandrill with Baby – One of the Budapest Zoo’s three six-week-old Mandrill babies
(Mandrillus Sphinx) rests in the lap of its mother during the first public appearance in
Budapest, 2007. The Mandrill is one of the endangered species of West Africa,
for which a breeding program is coordinated at the Budapest Zoo.

Two Baby Tamarins - a male and female, cling to a stuffed toy Tamarin, held by a zoo keeper
at the Utica zoo in New York. The two endangered golden Tamarins were rejected by their
mother, so in order to keep the babies from imprinting 100 per cent on the humans caring for
them, the keepers placed the toy in the incubator where the parents live.

Tasmanian Devil - a healthy joey displayed as part of an intensive conservation programme,
because of the spread of an infectious facial tumour which gradually disfigures the animal’s
face to the point it is unable to eat.

Numbat

Goodfellow’s Tree Kangaroo

Long-eared Jerboa – an extraordinary mammal found in the deserts of Mongolia and China.
The tiny creature looks like a mouse-sized kangaroo with enormous ears. This endangered
animal was filmed during a recent Zoological Society of London expedition to the Mongolian
Gobi desert to track down and assess the species.

Moluccan or Salmon-crested Cockatoo - Illegal traders exploited the religious conflict
in Indonesia’s Maluku province in May to traffic and sell hundreds of the endangered
birds, a species protected under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered
Species.

Burmese Star Tortoises - Three critically endangered Burmese Star Tortoises at the San Diego
Zoo, the first time this species has successfully reproduced at the facility. The Burmese Star
Tortoise is not often bred in zoos, but with more as-yet-unhatched eggs, animal care staff are
hoping that more of the tortoises emerge. The reptile is almost extinct in its native Myanmar as
its numbers dwindle.

Brush-tailed Bettong with her joey – After living in its mother’s pouch for more than three
months, this joey emerged at the Lincoln Park Zoo in Chicago. This tiny marsupial which
only weighs 0.9 to 1.3kgs when fully grown is native to Southwestern Australia. This rare
species was nearly extinct in the wild by the early 1900s due to predation by introduced
animals like cats, rats and foxes. Fortunately, managed breeding programs and recovery
efforts are underway to ensure the species survival.

Eastern-barred Bandicoot The source for this article is at Endangered Animals – News.com.au

WEBSITES AND BLOGS

Save the Tasmanian Devil Website

A site dedicated to saving the wombat

Recommended Books

LSmitheringale — Sat, 25 Jul 2009 22:53:46 CDT

"Wildlife of Greater Brisbane" - New Edition - a Queensland Museum Wild Guide	"The Princeton Field Guide to the Birds of Australia" by Simpson and Day	"Wild Australia - A Guide to the Places, Plants and Animals" by Graham, Robert & Allan Edgar	"Backyard Insects" by Paul Horne and Denis Crawford, New Edition	"Wild Plants of Greater Brisbane" - a Queensland Museum Guide
"Parrots - a Wild Australia Guide" by Steve Parish and Karin Cox	Premiere Edition of "Nature's Paint Box" a quarterly eZine which contains interviews with leading wildlife artists, art, craft & photography techniques, how to sell your work online, exhibitions, galleries, free nature wallpapers and lots more...	Issue 2 of "Nature's Paint Box" - learn how to airbrush onto denim, sell your work online - a review of shopping carts, how to set up a website and the usual free goodies to enjoy...	Packed with info that has only been published in scientific journals.This collection of biological facts challenges the misconceptions associated with Australia's most famous marsupial.
Add photo caption or credit here.	Add photo caption or credit here.
Add photo caption or credit here.	Add photo caption or credit here.

Australian Wildlife Home

LSmitheringale — Sat, 25 Jul 2009 20:43:10 CDT

Welcome to Australian Wildlife Educational Site

This community site has been set up for everyone to enjoy and I envisage a large collection of educational resources being created for all ages to share about Australian wildlife. This could be photographs, websites, blogs, eBooks, galleries, RSS Feeds, exhibitions, books, discussions, magazines, news articles, videos, documentaries, nature journals etc. The possibilities are endless and this site belongs to all of us where you are free to add, edit and create to your heart's content as long as it is quality material with accurate content.

I have created albums for all of our photos such as Birds, Animals, Insects, Wild Plants, Reptiles etc where you can also view slideshows of the photos [please only upload your best photos which should be nice and sharp with details added] Please watermark your photos if you are worried about copyright issues - better to be safe than sorry!

I need your help to be able to make this community site pop with inspirational info and resources that you are willing to share and I am looking forward to seeing your contributions and ideas for this site.

Before you do anything on this site, I urge you to read this whole page and if you are planning on adding a photo or info, pay particular attention to "Now that I've Joined, What do I do? and Aims and Objectives for this site and how you can start helping now!This will make sure that you are familiar with the site, photo size restrictions and where to place your information in the relevant sub-categories.

Lesley

Why should I join Australian Wildlife Educational Site?

If you:

are passionate about Australian native wildlife and you want to learn more about all of the flora and fauna around you

have knowledge in this area which you would like to share

have good photographs of Australian flora and fauna which you would like to showcase, share and educate others about

want to meet like-minded people who share the same love of nature as yourself

are a wildlife artist/photographer/writer/illustrator who would like to showcase your work and gain more exposure

want to help raise awareness of Australian animal rights and welfare

are a wildlife carer

are a writer or author looking for information and images on Australian wildlife

have or belong to a wildlife organisation which you would like to promote

Now that I've joined, what can I do?

Upload an avatar, preferably a real photograph of yourself so that we as members can recognise each other

Create your profile page telling everyone about yourself

Add photos to the Galleries [ PHOTOS SHOULD BE NO LARGER THAN 500 PIXELS ON THE LONGEST SIDE] Resize before you upload them!

Add information, photos and links to the categorized pages on the site

Start or join in a discussion

Visit other members and comment on their contributions

Add a video, RSS Feed or Website you think members would appreciate

Tell your Australian wildlife artist, photographer and nature lover friends about this site and invite them to join

Embed the droplets for this site on your blog or website or social site such as Facebook to promote the Group - these are fantastic

Join in and have fun

Aims and Objectives for this site and how you can start helping now!

Basically, the site should provide pictures and factual information about as many Australian creatures and wild plants that we can come up with using our collective knowledge and resources. If you wish to "borrow" info or a picture you see somewhere on the Internet, please make sure that you have permission and that you include the person's name and relevant sources. This also goes for any books you have obtained information from as we need to be very careful about this and not step on anybody's toes!

There is an extensive menu on the left hand site of this site containing Identification Guides of various categories and sub-categories so if you want to add information about e.g. a bird you have seen, look for the appropriate sub-category such as Birds/Parrots and when you click on this it will bring up a template for you to add your picture and information notes. It is important that we all use this template for a pleasant uniformity of information on the site. If someone else has already included the creature or wild plant you were going to add, decide if you think another photo and more information would be advantageous. It's all about sharing and it's perfectly ok for members to tweak other members' additions. If you are not sure why don't you visit the member who has supplied the information and seek clarification?

To check what content has recently been added, simply click on the updates tab.

Example of "Ladybird" Identification using template which has been adapted

Not sure which category, can't identify your finding or you need to ask a question?

Start up a thread or discussion (bottom of each page) and members will help you with your query. This goes for any other issues or newsworthy articles you wish you engage members in discussion or opinions about. See "To Feed the Birds or not to Feed the Birds" discussion as an example.

How to use the tools on this site to create your information
You click on the EasyEdit button (picture below) to start editing the template and replacing the picture and text with your own!

After you click on EasyEdit button you will see another tool appear which is the EasyEdit Toolbar (picture below). This is a mini word processor and allows you to type with formatting and other options such as adding a video, photo, hyperlinks, widget etc Make sure to add tags for your entry so that members can find it easily.

Please let me know if you need any help.

P.S What do you think of our banner - kind of cute?

Lesley

Insects Identification Guide [Cockroaches, Beetles and Termites]

LSmitheringale — Sat, 25 Jul 2009 18:13:39 CDT

Cockroaches, Beetles and Termites

Ladybird
[Coccinellidae]

Description: Ladybirds (also known as ladybugs or ladybeetles) have a characteristic oval shape and most species have bright-coloured patches or spots. Length: 5-7mm (adults), 5mm (larva)

Notes: Ladybirds are fierce predators of softbodied prey such as aphids and this helps control these other pests. The female beetle lays batches of bright yellow eggs on leaves near a suitable food source, usually aphids. Adults will consume 2,500 aphids during their life! Ladybird beetles undergo a complete metamorphosis with four discrete life stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult beetle. Of these stages, only the adult beetle is very mobile and is capable of covering vast distances, using wings for flight to find new food sources or mating partners. The adult is also the stage that has a prolonged duration counted in months; the others last only few or more days. Larvae and adult are the stages that actively search and feed on various insects and other invertebrates, plant tissue or fungal hyphae and conidia.

Photo Source: Photo taken by Lesley Smitheringale in her garden, Redlands, Queensland, Australia

Information Sources: "Backyard Insects" by Paul Horne & Denis Crawford, Ladybirds of Australia Website by CSIRO (link below)
Links: Ladybirds of Australia, Gardening Australia Fact Sheet: Ladybirds

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Birds Identification Guide [Woodswallows, Swallows, Butcherbirds and Currawongs]

LSmitheringale — Sat, 25 Jul 2009 17:25:52 CDT

Woodswallows, Swallows, Butcherbirds and Currawongs

Pied Butcherbird
[Craticus nigrogularis]

Description: A striking black and white bird with a long dark-tipped grey beak with a fine hook at the end. Black tail with a white tip. Immature birds are similar but brown. Length: 35cm.

Notes: We have a family of butcherbirds who frequent our garden in the Redlands area of SE Queensland. The youngsters tend to stick around and help the adults feed the newest immature birds. They have a beautiful flute-like song and we have often been serenaded with the wide range of their lovely repertoire. There have been three young birds every year who are brown in colour and slowly over a year their feathers turn to black. They take turns to guard the area for predators and are very territorial. They battle with their rival, smaller grey butcherbirds and dive bomb each other, snapping their beaks inches from their target. They eat insects, lizards, small mammals and birds,[known to take canaries out of their cages] and fruit. Their habitat is open forests, woodland, scrub, farms, playing fields, parks and gardens and they are present all year round.
Photo Sources: Temma1 and Lesley Smitheringale
Info Sources: "Field Guide to Birds of Australia" by Simpson & Day, "Wildlife of Greater Brisbane - a Queensland Museum Wild Guide" and "Wild Australia - a Guide to the Places, Plants and Animals" by Graham, Robert and Allan Edgar

Grey Butcherbird
[Cracticus torquatus]

Description: Grey, black and white bird which is 30cm in length. Has a long dark-tipped grey beak which ends in a fine hook. Black head with white collar and grey back. Black wing has narrow white streak. Black tail with white tip and white upper tail coverts. Underbelly is white, washed grey. Male is larger than the female and juvenile birds are brown (see photo below).

Notes: Call is a rich and melodious piping, chortling and harsh, rasping staccato karr, karr when alarmed. The pied and grey butcherbirds attack each other in our garden and the grey butcherbirds in particular are quite ferocious and dive bomb the pied butcherbirds, barely missing them and snapping their beaks as they swoop down. Habitat is open forest, scrub, farms, playing fields, parks and gardens.

Photo Source: taken by Lesley Smitheringale
Info Sources: "Wildlife of Greater Brisbane" A Queensland Museum Wild Guide and "Field Guide to the Birds of Australia" by Simpson and Day

Links: Wikepedia
Video of Juvenille Butcherbird by N. Talbot

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

Notes: This is where you can add your own notes such as where you sighted the bird and anything else you want about the bird.

The text can be wrapped around your image, or you can have the text start below the photo. You can also move the photo to the right side of the page. See your choices for photo and text placement by clicking on the photo with your mouse and then clicking "image" on the toolbar.

You can also change the size of your photo by clicking on it once to highlight it, then by clicking the "plus" or "minus" sign in the "Edit Image" toolbox. When you're all done, save your page. [This text should be deleted]

Name
[Latin Name]

Description: This is where you can add a description of the bird and perhaps how the male and female differ.

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Birds Identification Guide [Sparrows and Finches]

LSmitheringale — Sat, 25 Jul 2009 17:24:21 CDT

Sparrows and Finches

House Sparrow
[Passer domesticus]

Description: Brown finch like bird with a streaky back. Length 15cm. Male black bill with grey crown and greyish underbelly. Large black bib and breast with chestnut nape. Whitish-grey ear coverts, underparts and rump. White bar on shoulder. Brownish-grey tail. Female (pictured) is plainer with a dull eyebrow, horn-brown bill and brownish underbody. In flight, upper wing streaky with a fine white band through the middle and a cinnamon band across the flight feathers.

Notes: Call is a sharp cheeping and chattering. Habitat: favours human habitation, farmland, reed beds, shopping centres, parks and gardens, urban and near urban areas. House Sparrows are noisy sparrows that flutter down from eaves and fencerows to hop and peck at crumbs or birdseed. Look for them flying in and out of nest holes hidden behind shop signs or in traffic lights, or hanging around parking lots waiting for crumbs and picking insects off car grills. House sparrows live in close proximity to humans, where they nest in human-made structures, and thrive in disturbed conditions. House sparrows will preferentially eat seeds and grain. However, like many pest species, they are omnivorous, meaning that they consume a wide variety of foods (insects, spiders, berries, fruits, flower buds and scraps of food left by humans). Breeding: Incubation period of 10-12 days, which is the shortest incubation time of any other bird. In ideal conditions, a female may lay up to 25 eggs in a single year, enabling the population sizes of this species to increase rapidly. The numbers of House Sparrows are declining world-wide.

Photo Source: taken by Lesley Smitheringale
Info Sources: "Wildlife of Greater Brisbane" A Queensland Museum Wild Guide and "Field Guide to the Birds of Australia" by Simpson and Day, Northern Territory Government Website (Environment Dept)

Links: Wikipedia

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Birds Identification Guide [Ostriches, Cassowaries & Emus]

LSmitheringale — Sat, 25 Jul 2009 17:20:51 CDT

Emu
[Dromaius novaehollandiae]

Description: General plumage is dark brown to grey-brown. Long, thick, dropping, soft feathers which appear shaggy. Emu's eyes are golden brown to black. Skin of head, throat blue. Has long legs and dark grey-brown feet with three toes. Body plumage of breeding female darkens. The neck of the Emu is pale blue and shows through its sparse feathers. They have brown to grey-brown plumage of shaggy appearance; the shafts and the tips of the feathers are black. Solar radiation is absorbed by the tips, and the loose-packed inner plumage insulates the skin. The resultant heat is prevented from flowing to the skin by the insulation provided by the coat, allowing the bird to be active during the heat of the day. A unique feature of the Emu feather is its double rachis emerging from a single shaft. The sexes are similar in appearance. Stands to 2m

Notes: The emu is the second largest bird after the ostrich. It normally eats grasses, fruit and flowers but is not averse to insects. Emus are innately curious and can be attracted by lying on the ground and waving a piece of cloth. After the females have laid their eggs, they abandon them, leaving the males to incubate and raise the chicks. The female lays up to 20 eggs, which are large and are soft dark green in colour. These eggs are often prized not only by humans for decoration pieces, but by animals as a food source. The male incubates the eggs for a period of 7-8 weeks, and does not leave the nest for this period. When the eggs hatch, the male emu looks after the hatchlings for another six months. Some farmers regard the emus as a pest because it breaks fences. The Emu is common over most of mainland Australia, although it avoids heavily populated areas, dense forest, and arid areas. Emus can travel great distances at a fast, economical trot and, if necessary, can sprint at 50km/h (31mph) for some distance at a time. They are opportunistically nomadic and may travel long distances to find food; they feed on a variety of plants and insects. Their calls consist of loud booming, drumming, and grunting sounds that can be heard up to two kilometers away. The booming sound is created in an inflatable neck sac that is 30cm (12in) long and thin-walled. Though an Emu will be cautious when approaching civilisation, Emus are well known for approaching small groups of humans in the wild when prompted by food, in fact, even if the food is not offered to them they can be rather persistent in helping themselves. They are also known for violent behavior towards humans, and may attack without notice. According to National Geographic there have been 120 reported emu attacks in the past year, five of them were deadly.

Photo Source: taken by Lesley Smitheringale, J Folmer
Info Sources: "Field Guide to the Birds of Australia" by Simpson and Day, "Wild Australia" - A Guide to the Places, Plants and Animals by Graham, Robert and Allan Edgar, Wikipedia

Links: Wikipedia, Scribbly Gum, Video of chick with its parent by Jan Wigmore, Video of An adult Emu and several juveniles in a field, preening and foraging by Matt Weeks

Cassowary
[Casuarius casuarius]

Description: A large flightless bird with a black body and a tall, greyish casque (helmet) on both sexes. The skin on the head is pale blue which becomes darker down the neck. Some red lateral skin also appears on the neck. Two long red-to-crimson free-swinging fleshy wattles originate at the front of the neck. The feathers are course and hair-like with shaft and aftershaft. Short, stout green-grey/brown/grey legs and feet. Three toes with the inner toe-nail an elongated spike up to 120mm. Female is slightly larger and more brightly coloured. Up to 1.75m tall.

Notes: Cassowaries eat fallen fruit from the rainforest as well as dead birds, rats and fish. Like the emu, this bird has been known to fatally wound humans with a slashing kick to the stomach. Deep drumming voice and frequents arid inland plains, tropical woodlands, heathlands and coastal dunes. Runs with a bouncy, swaying motion. May be solitary or in family groups and large flocks.

Photo Sources: Lesley Smitheringale captured this cassowary at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary, Queensland, Paul IJsendoom,
Info Sources: "Field Guide to the Birds of Australia" by Simpson and Day, "Wild Australia" - A Guide to the Places, Plants and Animals by Graham, Robert and Allan Edgar

Links: Wikipedia, Video of Cassowary by Eldert Groenewoud, Video of close-up of the neck wattles and helmet by Josep del Hoyo Scribbly Gum - Sensitive New Age Cassowary,

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Australian Wildlife in the News

LSmitheringale — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 19:26:57 CDT

Please add any Australian Wildlife stories which have been in the News...
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News: Battle for lives

By: Amy Middleton | July-15-2009

The pressure is on for NSW to ban farmers from shooting 1000 threatened flying foxes per year.

Pressure is mounting on the Government to reverse licensing laws that permit the shooting of grey-headed flying foxes in NSW. A coalition of groups yesterday spoke out against the law, which gives farmers licence to kill up to 1000 of the threatened species population per fruit season.

Nick Edards of Bat Advocacy, one of the groups involved in the fight, realises that many farmers, particularly on small holdings, rely on the existing law for protection of their crops. “The worry for the farmers is, if shooting gets banned there’ll be no compensation for it.” but Nick has reason to believe the NSW Farmers Association is working on a proposal to provide rebates for netting if licenses are revoked. As well as animal cruelty issues, concernssurround the reproductive cycle of the species, asthe shooting licences coincide with the flying foxes' breeding season.

The species is already suffering decline in its population, which occurs only along the east coast of Australia. Queensland last year phased out the annual license allowance, and pressure is on for NSW to follow suit before the next fruit season begins. “We’ve been fighting for this since October last year,” Nick said, and it seems awareness is amounting. A community campaign launched by the Grey Cross group (register at their website) on June 1 has so far obtained more than 2000 signatures signalling public support in NSW.

A report put together in November last year outlining the cause includes a list of advocates 58 strong, including WWF Australia, FAUNA and a host of endangered animal and bat protection organisations.

Government decision-makers are expected to release their findings as early as this week.

For more information and to download the reports, visit the website.
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Bees: The sting in the tale

By: Karen McGhee | July-6-2009

Australia’s scientists are abuzz with the potential of our native bees.

Launch Gallery

Ask half a dozen Australians to nominate the country’s deadliest creatures and they’ll probably rattle off an impressive catalogue of snakes, spiders and sharks with frightening capabilities to kill humans. The blue-ringed octopus, stonefish and box jellyfish are also likely to get a look in. But who’d expect to see the European honey bee on the list?

And yet this diligent little insect – first brought here in 1822 – kills one or two Australians a year. On average, sharks annually claim fewer lives and the national tally of deaths from spider bites is also lower.

For most of us, a bee sting causes only localised pain and swelling. The insects produce venom, known as apitoxin (see “The sting”), in abdominal glands and store it in special sacs. Although the toxin is poisonous to humans, each sting injects no more than 0.1 mg. It’s estimated it would take at least 500 jabs to kill the average adult human and this has never been known to occur in Australia. However, up to 3 per cent of the population is thought to be allergic to honey bee venom. Within minutes of being stung, allergic individuals will develop symptoms of anaphylactic shock, during which airways can be obstructed and blood pressure plummets.

Despite the potential danger, no-one is celebrating the anticipated arrival in Australia of a tiny invader that’s expected to decimate the nation’s European honey bee population. Identified, described and assigned the Latin name of Varroa destructor in 2000 by CSIRO scientist and international mite expert Dr Denis Anderson, the parasite is blamed for many billions of dollars of lost agricultural production worldwide since the 1980s. Although mites are common bee parasites, none is as debilitating to the European honey bee as V. destructor, which Denis and his co-workers believe is a mutation of a Korean mite strain that first appeared during the 1960s and began spreading worldwide two decades later.

It’s now causing havoc for agriculture on every populated continent except Australia and recently became established in Papua New Guinea and New Zealand. “There is no longer a question of if it arrives here but when,” Denis says.

With two-thirds of Australia’s food crops relying to some extent on pollination by European honey bees, the insect is estimated to be worth a massive $1.7billion a year to the national economy. Crops that will be hit particularly hard range from melons, stone fruit, apples and pears to lucerne, cotton and canola. Some, such as almonds, are 100 per cent dependent on honey bee pollination, and rely on the deliberate placement of hives near groves. Growers presently pay a $50 fee per hive for the thousands that are strategically placed in South Australia and Victoria each August. Such severe declines in Australia’s managed bee population are predicted due to V. destructor that the cost of this service per hive will quadruple.

But recent studies have also hinted at wider ecological impacts. The European insect’s consumption of nectar from eucalypt flowers, for example, has been implicated in the demise of the nationally endangered swift parrot. Likewise, declines of bird species in the Adelaide Hills have been linked to competition from colonising feral bees for nectar and tree-hollows.

The European honey bee may also have affected the distribution and numbers of local bees, although the introduced species has been here so long its impact on native insects is difficult to prove. The V. destructor crisis may provide an opportunity for our own mite-resistant native species to shine.

“[Native] stingless bees can be excellent pollinators of tropical and subtropical crops such as macadamias, coffee and mangos,” says CSIRO’s DrTim Heard, a native bee expert. “With the domestication of stingless bees that is taking place, commercial use of these to pollinate crops may be possible in coming decades.”

The Japanese have shown keen interest in the hive-building species of native bees because they’re stingless, making them attractive pollinators for high-density glasshouse production. And the nuclei for hives of at least one colonial species are already available from Queensland suppliers for east-coast delivery by post. At the University of Adelaide work is underway to breed blue-banded bees, a solitary species that occurs in most Australian gardens, as pollinators of greenhouse crops such as tomatoes.

So far, 1647 native Australian bee species have been identified and named, but hundreds more are probably yet to be discovered. They’ve never had the chance to enjoy the smorgasbord of crop flowers now available here without competition from European honey bees. Subsequently, no-one’s sure how our native species will respond to the changing conditions. But there’s every chance these native pollinators will turn around and do a terrific job.